I’ve been in five different countries during Valentine’s Day. And I am amazed how globalization has taken this very-American, commercialized-driven “holiday” and brought it around the world. In the United States, Ethiopia, China, Bulgaria, and Israel, the ubiquitous “I Love You” and red hearts dot the landscape of candy and flower shops around February 14. And while it is still over a week away, I am seeing more and more Valentine-themed swag here in Israel. If only love could overcome hate.
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Today, was an errand day. We spent part of our outing in Ramla, what is euphemistically called a “mixed city.” What that means is that Muslims, Christians, and Jews all live here. It is an interesting town. Completely within the “Green Line” (the literal green line that was drawn on a map at one point, indicating the division between Israel and (then) Jordan and Syria, and has been referenced in all the various UN resolutions and various peace proposals over the decades), Ramla was founded as an Arab town. As early as the 16th century, it seems that a Jewish community was established here. And today, it is a melange of cultures and religions. Muslim, Christian, Jewish all live side-by-side. People from dozens of countries have all settled here, creating a fascinating cultural fabric. While far from perfect – and (at least in my opinion) with a mayor who is less than egalitarian and open-minded – Ramla is still a model for what co-existence could look like.
Lunch was at Samir’s, one of those iconic spots you HAVE to visit if you ever come. Go up to the owner, Jalil Dabit, and tell him that I sent you. He will give you a big smile and welcome you as family. Jalil is the son of Samir, whose grandfather opened the first restaurant in 1928, just near the Clock Tower in Yafo. In 1942, he re-opened the family restaurant in Ramla. And it arrived at its current location in 1948. Samir, his five siblings, and his extended Greek Orthodox Palestinian family have been fixtures in Ramla. You can’t go very far without meeting someone who is related. Sadly, Samir died about a decade ago. I was privileged to know him. I was privileged to stay in his home, to eat at his table. A Christian Palestinian, he was a devout Communist…and deeply believed in the humanity of all people. One of his best friends was David (my host). Their children grew up together. Jalil, along with a number of other family members, attended regular (Jewish) schools growing up. Just as Ramla is a model of shared lives, so too is Samir’s family of how Palestinian and Jew can live in harmony. A great example is the restaurant that Jalil, a Palestinian Israeli Christian, opened in Berlin, Germany, with Oz Ben David, an Israeli Jew. Their place, Kanaan, itself is a symbol of what is possible.
Oh by the way, Samir’s has the BEST hummus is all of Israel…IMHO.
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One of the errands was to pick up some candy for a friend of Miri’s. We walk into the small store and the scene playing out in front of me spoke of what might be possible in this complicated dot of geography on our planet.
First, the candy store is chock full of…candy. All kinds. But 30% was Valentine-themed. As we walked in, there were four already in the cramped store: the store owner, a helper, a customer and her infant in a stroller. While we waited our turn, the store owner (part of Samir’s family), a Palestinian Greek Orthodox Christian Israel is speaking with the customer, a Palestinian Muslim Israeli, dressed in a hijab. The conversation is a mixture of Hebrew and Arabic. Some Arabic sentences. Some Hebrew. And some a mishmash of both. At one point, the customer (and mother of the infant) had to run out to her car to get her wallet. As she walked out, the infant lost sight of his mother and – in the stroller – began to fuss. With 6 grandchildren, Miri instinctively knew what to do. She took the stroller, began to rock it back and forth and speak ever so gently to the baby. He looked at her, calmed down, and smiled. Within a few moments, the mother returned, saw what was happening, smiled, and said “todah” (thank you). She paid for her candy, smiled and nodded at us all, and went on her way.
And that all made me smile…and it filled me with hope. A Jewish safta (grandmother) is rocking and calming a Palestinian Muslim baby, while his mother was buying candy from a Palestinian Greek Orthodox in order to celebrate an American holiday – Valentine’s Day. And everyone was comfortable with one another sharing a small space together.
If only we could bottle the good will in that store, multiply it by a million…
If only.
(Picture: Chocolate candy with the word, “B’ahava” [with love])
The State of Art 